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Questions and Answers:
"Another Honeysuckle Control Question"

D.H. (5-14-10) - I have on my farm several acres of honeysuckle regrowth. When honeysuckle was cut out during the past two winters not all of it was sprayed. Thus the regrowth consists of large clumps of small plants. I am looking for suggestions to eradicate this regrowth, I have sprayed some with 2,4-D a couple weeks ago and I am waiting for the results of that spraying. Any suggestion are welcomed.---D. H., Stockton, IL

"Honeysuckle Control"

D.H. (5-6-10) -What's the best way to control honeysuckle this time of year (April and May) ? D.H., Wayne, Illinois

Answer (5-10-10) -In answer to D. H. re: honeysuckle control. Without knowing how bad your situation is it's difficult to cite one control method as the "silver bullet." Applying a foliar spray is probably the quickest and least strenuous method for controlling leafed-out honeysuckle bushes. The herbicide Crossbow, active ingredients (a.i.) triclopyr and 2,4-D. Crossbow is effective properly mixed with water in a backpack sprayer. Keep in mind that depending on the bushes' maturity, they've probably been producing seed. You'll likely have seedlings sprouting, which you can weed out by hand-pulling as they appear. If you don't want to use an herbicide in foliar spray form, you can cut the stems and apply herbicide to the cut stump. If you stump treat with glyphosate, e.g., Roundup, get it on the cut stems right away. With Crossbow, the triclopyr will penetrate the cut stem even if you apply at a later time. Just make sure the percent is enough to kill the root system, meaning you can't dilute Crossbow for stump treatment as much as you can with a Crossbow foliar spray. Pulling shrubs like honeysuckle (and buckthorn) is my favorite method because the root systems are shallow and probability of kill is 100 percent. Plus, at this time of year the ground is soft so they come out easier than in summer and fall. Different pulling tools like the honeysuckle popper, root talon or weed wrench are effective for pulling bushes too big to pull by hand. Remember, you're disturbing the ground, so the seed bank will most likely produce some seedlings. Another mechanical method is to cut the stems with a brushcutter with a blade attachment like a brush knife, then wait for the cut stems to resprout. Spray the resprouts and new seedlings with an herbicide like a glyphosate solution. When I've woody stems laying around from my cutting, I gather them up and pile on a known invasive plant; then let the debris dry out and burn later, thereby killing the invasive plant(s) on that spot. By gathering the debris it's easier to walk through the area at a later date to locate and treat resprouting or emerging honeysuckle. In sum, think in terms of using an integrated approach, meaning use several different methods over a period of several years to properly control a serious infestation.---D. B.,Stitzer, WI

"Green Dragon (Arisaemadracontium)"

L.S. (5-3-10) -We have been given several red seed heads of Green Dragon (Arisaema dracontium). We hope to get these to start in our shady garden. Any advice on increasing their chances of sprouting and surviving would be much appreciated.Thanks, L. S., Cedar Rapids, IA

Answer (5-7-10) -In answer to - LS re Green Dragon seed. I recollect this, but check against what others tell you as it's been a few years. If you remove the outer red skin, your seed will germinate more readily. Handle the seeds with rubber gloves when removing the red skin as it has oxalic acid in it, which can burn your skin. Soak the seeds in water for a couple days; then, wearing gloves, smush them around in a small-holed metal sieve, rubbing them gently against the sieve, and rinse thoroughly while you're doing this. Put them in the ground without drying them---no more deeply than the seed is thick. Let us know if this works.---Maryann Whitman, Journal Editor,Wild Ones, promoting native plants, natural Landscapes. www.for-wild.org

"Habitat"

N.W. (4-30-10) - When we first moved to our present location we found a Northern Prairie Skink in the yard but haven't seen one since. Is there any way we can provide habitat that can encourage skinks to stay "if" they're still in the vicinity? N.W., IA

Answer (5-1-10) - L.J. - Northern Prairie skinks are found in sandy/gravel prairie areas, open grasslands with loose soils and open rocky areas. If you had one in your yard, you must have similar habitat nearby. But to encourage prairie skinks to stay you might try creating rock piles, or even laying large pieces of wood around for shelter; they will often take refuge under rocks or logs during the hottest parts of the day in mid-summer. Prairie skinks actively burrow, and may burrow under rocks or similar cover. L.J., MN


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